The words “kosher food,” for many people, evoke images of bagels, matzoh ball soup, and pastrami on rye. Kosher is often associated with pickles and Nathan’s hot dogs. In literal terms, kashrut refers to the body of Jewish law that delineates what foods should and should not be eaten and how food should be prepared. (One tenet of kashrut, for example, calls for the separation of meals into those containing dairy and those containing meat.)
In thinking of the kinds of foods a kosher-observant person might eat, rarely does tuna tartare or shiitake mushroom strudel come to mind. Yet these two dishes, along with a slew of other modern delicacies, comprised the menu at a local kosher cooking demonstration – proof that the world of kosher food expands beyond the limits of popular thought, full of exciting and often unexpected possibilities.
The demonstration, titled “It’s Not Your Mother’s Kosher Cooking,” was held in the Ecolab Theatre at the Culinary Institute of America on Saturday, Nov. 8. Sponsored by the Jewish Community Center of Dutchess County, the program attracted both Jews and non-Jews, all eager to learn new cooking techniques and sample food made by the finest in the business.
Chef Scott Swartz, who currently works at the CIA, commandeered the evening’s events. Swartz, standing behind the room’s sprawling electrical stove that came to function as a kind of stage, prepared each dish on the menu, which was displayed on three large screens so that the audience could visualize the process. Behind him, a team of his own CIA students plated the sample-sized dishes and distributed them to the crowd of increasingly salivating attendees.
Swartz maintained a casual, conversational tone throughout the evening, alternating between detailed cooking instructions and meditations on his passion for food.
“Great food, to me, has lots of layers of flavors,” he said, as plates of salmon with red pepper coulis made their way onto trays to be served. “I’m into subtle flavors, ones that don’t overpower the palette.”
Swartz explained that, although he did not grow up in a kosher household, he came to discover, through experience and experimentation, that many cooking ingredients are, incidentally, kosher.
“Kashrut is a different world now than it was even 10 years ago,” he said. “You might be surprised to know that Goya-brand olive oil is kosher; so are many types of balsamic vinegar, oregano, other spices … the list goes on.”
Wine on the menu
Guests also tasted an assortment of wines – all kosher – supplied by Ketcham, a Hudson Valley winery. Kosher wines, as the Ketcham representative explained, do not differ from other wines in taste; their primary distinction is that the entire process, from cultivation to distribution, is overseen by a rabbi. The selection of wines was planned to correspond to the menu, with each wine complementing the flavors of its respective dish. Swartz added, between sips, that wine is essential in cooking, as it brings out the acidity of the food. (Acid, in turn, enhances the taste of salt – a tip that is useful when cooking a savory dish, like the salmon Swartz made.)
Among the wines offered, the Italian Moscato emerged as the clear favorite, drawing hushed comments of delight from the crowd.
“I could drink this by the gallon,” one woman whispered to her friend.
As the evening drew to a close, the dessert distributed (coconut flan and Bananas Foster), Swartz reflected once again on the diverse and delicious options kosher cooking can provide. He expressed hope that guests’ interest, and not just their appetites, might be piqued as a result of his presentation.
“I want you to leave here thinking, ‘Wow, I can’t believe this is kosher food!’” Swartz said.
Swartz, who has been teaching cooking for eight years, stressed the importance of demonstrating specific techniques to his students – and to any aspiring cook.
“If you understand a recipe, you can make one dish,” he said. “If you understand a technique, you can make 1,000.”
Wyeth Drummond, director of programming for the JCC, concluded the program by extending thanks to everyone for attending, and encouraging people to spread the word. The kosher cooking demonstration is the first in a new series of programs titled, “A Passport to the Jewish Arts.” The series, spread out through November and early December, showcases three different aspects of Jewish culture: culinary, literary, and musical.
More information on the specific topics, locations and dates of the programs can be found on the JCC Web site: www.jccdc.org.