Culinary combat

Marines hone their cooking skills at the Culinary Institute in Hyde Park



Chef Phillip Crispo, assistant professor of culinary arts at the CIA, demonstrates a consommé for a group of Marines on Jan. 8. (Photo by Ty Marshal)

By Ty Marshal

The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) was founded in 1946, in part to assist war veterans in finding a vocation after World War II. Since then, the Hyde Park institution has become known for creating knowledgeable individuals with a vast world of food service experience – otherwise known as chefs. The CIA has continued its relationship with the military throughout its history as a school, and in the last year has established a program that trains members of various military branches in becoming certified culinarians.

Over the next six weeks, 11 U.S. Marines are officially stationed at the Culinary Institute to train in the Pro Chef Certification Immersion course. ProChef Certification is offered by the CIA’s school of Continuing Education, and is designed for students who are well on their way toward competency in the foundational culinary arts.

These are not classes for the amateur food lover or those who simply want to take a cooking class. The students here have anywhere from six months to two years’ experience in the food service industry and knowledge of the culinary essentials. Each student in this course is required to take an examination at the end of their studies, which is the telling result of their Pro Chef certification.

Before setting foot in the classrooms, students are required to know how to sauté, braise, roast, fry and poach, prepare stocks, soups and sauces, have experience in menu progression and plate accompaniments and understand the principals of food safety and sanitation. Most of the Marines taking this course have spent their careers in the food service sectors of the military – soldiers who aren’t often in the news, but whose function keeps the military strong, healthy and ready to defend.

“Anyone with an interest can take a class at the CIA, but this can certify you through the exam,” said Tama Murphy, director of continuing education at the CIA. “There are three levels in the Pro Chef Certification, and the student Marines are here for Level 1, which focuses on culinary fundamentals, time management, food ordering and preparation. The Marines want to increase their culinary output and to provide personal skills for both inside and outside military service,” said Murphy.


Putting skills to use

Beyond the first call of duty, the time spent at the CIA is part of the Marines’ job, and ultimately, service to the country, utilizing the classes as professional development courses.

When not serving at the CIA, Sgt. Thomas Wright is stationed in Yuma, Ariz., where he is a chief cook who teaches younger Marines about what drives him. “I’ve been interested in the culinary arts since I started taking the course as a junior in high school,” he said during a class on Jan. 8.

Currently, he spends some of his off time working in a local bar and grill to gain experience cooking outside of the Marines. He also attends Arizona Western College, attaining a degree in hotel restaurant management. “I’m taking this course because cooking is my passion. I know what I want for myself and plan to finish at the top,” he said.

Although their backgrounds and stories are significantly different, each of the Marines has a notable enthusiasm for the culinary arts. Although classes like “Soups, Stocks and Sauces,” “Cooking Principals,” “The Fundamentals of Flavor Dynamics” and “Breakfast and Brunch Cookery” won’t necessarily all be used the mess halls the Marines return to, the knowledge and certification they gain can be put to good use and enhance their proficiency in food service in the future.

Commanding General Reynaldo Miranda is an instructor and inspector for the East Coast Food Management Team, and has been a Marine for the last 16 years. He’s taking this path as “an opportunity to enhance my culinary skills,” he said. Serving in Operation Linebacker in Afghanistan in 2004, Miranda hopes to advance his culinary expertise after retirement, and enjoys the detailed training the CIA offers. “It opens doors for Marines to come in and hone their skills,” he said.

Under the leadership of Assistant Professor of Culinary Arts, Chef Phillip Crispo, the Marines are treated like normal students. On this particular day, they were learning the various methods of soups, stocks and sauces that are required for the exam. “We are trying to get them ready to cook, but also to pass the test,” said Crispo, who was demonstrating how to make a proper consommé at the time. “By the end of this week, we’ll have a good idea of what their requirements will be.”

Like any student preparing for an exam, there is some nervousness associated with the process. By all accounts, it’s not only the cooking skills that are necessary here, but test-taking skills as well. “They may be Marines,” said Crispo, “but they are still nervous.” He also noted that he not only teaches cooking methods but works on calming the students and building their confidence.

“A lot of people view Marine Corp. cooking as SOS,” joked Commanding General Danny O’Connell, who is an instructor at Fort Lee in Virginia and has served two tours in Iraq. “The military will run smoother if they are fed a nutritional meal, so we are taking the knowledge we’re learning and putting it to use.”

Like a dedicated soldier, O’Connell gave praise to the general of this unique Marine training exercise. “With Chef Crispo as instructor, we are in good hands.” When asked about his feelings regarding the course and the final exam, he confided, “Marines thrive on success, but the newness of this worries me a little bit.”

Beyond the initial screening process, and the online study guides, the CIA has also added two extra courses for the Marines, which include knife skills, nutrition, culinary math and other subjects needed to pass the exam. With an 85 percent success rate amongst the program participants who have taken the Level 1 exam thus far, it seems that the program is working. Now in their second week of what can be described as basic training, culinary style, the Marines are beginning to work in teams and bond in the kitchen.

“I’m hoping I can tell you we have all 11 pass,” said Murphy. After all, “We’re feeding the people who we want to protect our country.”